bariloche
When Sach and his brother Set arrived, we hadn't actually made any definite plans for travel. We all knew that we either wanted to go to Patagonia or to Iguazu. Since Sach was leaving earlier than Set it was really a decision left to him. After cruising around Buenos Aires hearing that there were no flights available to the Southern part of Argentina, Sach found an English speaking travel agent who was extremely helpful and managed to find us flights to Bariloche and out of Trelew. This of course meant that there was a 15 hour bus ride inbetween the two cities....no problem. So, we bought the tickets and got ready for adventure.
We flew into Bariloche on the 12th of March. At least I think it was that day. We took a cab to the city and wandered around looking for a good place to stay. Eventually, we found this strange, large building that had a certain "Shining" feel to it and had we not been tired and lazy, we probably would have looked for another place. Fortunately, the windows faced the trees and lake and mountains, so Set could do some birding from there.
The first day in Bariloche was really nothing too exciting....a lot of wandering around looking for things to do, or cars to rent, or anything. The city was super touristy and really sucked. We ate at some Gaucho restaurant where Sach chose the Swirled Dick...which is what we called it cuz it really looked like a giant swirled dick. It was so gross, but tasted so good. I think we were all tired from traveling and passed out that night ready to get a car and find something fun to do the next day.
So, Day 2, we got the car, and drove and drove. Sherry and I had introduced the boys to Mate, which is the typical Argentine drink here. I was glad to see that Sach was really into the whole spreading of germs ritual. Set, however, thought the Mate spoon, which is made of some sort of metal, was really fucking hot and didn't like to drink from it. He got over that, thank God.
That day, we drove around and explored some nature and looked for some birds. We stopped at some artisan's shop at one point, because it was on the way to some boat we were planning on taking around the lake. The place was called Rosa Misquito (or something like that) and Sherry thought they would sell food. But she was wrong. They sold lotions and tea made of rosehips. We pretended to be interested in the goods and let the saleslady put lotion on our hands and give us a speech about how it would take away stretch marks. At one point she turned to Set and asked "Would you like to cream yourself, young man?" which made us have to hold in the scream giggles. Set was nice enough to say yes to the women and so he creamed himself....right there and then.
Well, we went on the boat trip...it was ok I guess. But we paid for VIP seats and an English speaking tour guide who ignored us the entire time. There were other wealthy Americans on the boat and he was ready to be their BFF, but not ours. That guy was such a dick.
The next day, we planned on doing the whole nature thing and taking a hike in the mountains. Sach had read up a little on a particular path that was considered "very popular" and convinced us to check out of our hotel, hike for 4 hours, sleep in some secret cabin (refugio) in the middle of the mountain, and hike 4 hours back down. No problem, right?
So, we spent the early part of the day birding, driving, drinking whiskey and eating chocolates. I think we barely ate, which makes this particular adventure kind of ridiculous. At about 3:30pm, we drove to the ski lifts that take you to the top of some huge mountain where you begin your trek. We got off, and saw signs that said that the last ride down was in 20 minutes...which meant that if we wanted to go down, we had to do it then. We didn't. Just kept walking. Down some dirt road.....there were absolutely no trees on the top of the mountain, and although I'm not sure how high it was, it had to be pretty damn high.
We tried to follow some path, but got a little lost at a fork in the road. Sach spoke to some mountain peeps and came back saying the we had to climb to the top of some ridge to find the start of the trail. Also, the men had said that the walk was only about 40 minutes. That was such bullshit. So we climbed to the top of the ridge....and all I could see was rocks and straight down....and some red dots that marked some sort of nonexistent path that we had to follow. I was wearing fucking converse and I was petrified. I don't know if it was the whiskey I had been drinking or the lack of food or what, but I was really dizzy and couldn't even stand up. I started to cry. I knew we had to walk on, but I couldn't. I was so scared. I cried like I never had before. This, of course, freaked Sherry out, who started screaming at Sach about taking us on the trail. But I knew that we had to do it. It was already late and the hike wasn't suppose to be that long. So, Sach said that he would hold my hand and walk me down the first part of the trail.
At this point, Set had gone ahead of us to show us how easy it was, and was standing at the end of the first part of the trek. Sach started walking me, step by careful step while I was blubbering, down the path. On one side of me, there was only down down down and black and the path ahead was narrow and slippery. Half way down the path I could here Sherry screaming "Neshemah come back here. Sach you are an asshole. Fuck all three of you. I am putting my foot down." She was so angry and yet kept trying to walk a few steps towards us and then ran back again screaming even louder and repeating the steps again.
Set stood in front of us looking extremely frustrated about all of this. He started yelling "Sach, leave Neshemah there and go get Sherry." But Sach KNEW that he couldn't leave me there. I would have fainted. So, Set had to come and get me and Sach had to go back and get Sherry. I can't tell you how uncomfortable it is to be crying and covered in your own snot and holding the hand of someone you hardly know. I kept apologizing over and over for the boogers all over my hand and arm and face. Set just looked a little annoyed.
After completing the first leg of the journey, we came to some rocks. Yes, mountain climbing....on rocks... on the edge of a mountain..... what the fuck!
Well, we were all really surprised that Sach had been wrong about the 40 minute part. It turned out that we climbed for 2 hours on the ridge and then over the mountain and straight down for another hour or hour and a half til we finally got to this lake in the middle of the mountain. There was a little green and next to the lake was a cabin.
Sherry likes to call this place Heaven. Because it was. We got there just as the sky fell dark. We were so lucky because we didn't have a flashlight or sleeping bags or anything for camping or hiking and this little piece of Heaven had everything for us.
The Refugio is just a cabin with one man who cooks and cleans and kinda takes care of you, for a price of course. We bought dinner and wine and laughed about our journey there and felt so peaceful. It was definitely Heaven...no other explanation.... and that night we all went to bed in a large room with other travelers, on a large top bunk and started snoring away.....
The next day, we walked down the mountain, which was really easy and beautiful..... still smiling from the night before, we got on a bus and headed for Trelew on the Patagonian coast.
the pumpkin masher





